Fancy yarn from ring spun machine

Fancy yarn

Fancy yarn refers to single ply yarn with structural and morphological changes. Its spinning method is to use special processes or devices in carding, roving, spinning and other processes, so as to change the structure and shape of the yarn and make the yarn surface have "dot" and "knot" patterns. For example, the surface of the knotted yarn is attached to the surface of the yarn with granular dots; The surface of slub yarn presents discontinuous thick and thin knots; The surface of discontinuous AB yarn is one section of monochrome yarn, and the other section is bi color AB yarn distributed alternately. The length of the thick and thin knots or monochrome and AB yarns can be determined according to the requirements of the following products. They can be long or short, thick or thin, and the spacing can be thin or dense. They can be adjusted regularly or irregularly. Fancy yarn has the following main varieties.

（1） Core spun yarn

There are many kinds of core spun yarn, which can be made from various materials according to actual needs. It is commonly used for polyurethane core spun yarn, polyester or nylon core spun yarn, and stainless steel core spun yarn.

1. Spandex core spun yarn is formed by feeding a stretched spandex filament (generally stretching 3~4 times) between the middle roller and the front roller of an ordinary spinning frame to meet the drawn whiskers, and wrapping the original ribbon fiber whiskers on the outside of the spandex filament through the front roller. The linear density of this kind of yarn is generally 12~30tex (33~83metric yarns), which can be used for knitted or woven fabrics. The fabrics are elastic and comfortable to wear. At present, most of the polyurethane core green fibers are cotton coated with ammonia, and some are polyester coated with ammonia. The polyurethane core spun yarn can also be produced on a double roller twisting machine or a special wrapping machine, and the polyurethane filament is wrapped with a layer of cotton yarn or nylon filament; Some are wrapped with silk and used to make the collar of silk T-shirts. Because of the shrinkage of spandex, the knitted collar can be stiff.

2. Polyester core spun yarn The polyester core spun yarn is formed by feeding a high-strength polyester filament from the middle roller to the front roller on the ordinary spinning frame, and wrapping the original ribbon fibers on the surface of the polyester filament through the front roller. This yarn can be made into high strength polyester sewing thread with high strength. After being coated with cotton fiber, it is not easy to heat up when passing through the needle hole of the high-speed sewing machine. This yarn can also be woven into canvas as a transport belt. It has high strength and good adhesion with rubber after being coated with cotton fiber, overcoming the shortcomings of poor affinity between polyester and rubber.

3. Stainless steel wire core spun yarn μ M stainless steel monofilament is wrapped with cotton fiber, and the spinning method is similar to that of polyester core spun yarn. In the process, it should be noted that the unwinding of stainless steel filament package should use radial positive unwinding method. This kind of core spun yarn is generally used as weft yarn when weaving, and it is arranged 1:1 or 1:2 with ordinary yarn. This kind of fabric can be used as a cover for radar protection in national defense, and also can be used as an anti radiation work suit or apron for civil use. It has a wide range of uses.

（2） Stainless steel fiber/cotton blended yarn

This kind of yarn is made by drawing stainless steel wire into 8000~10000 tow (single wire diameter 6~8 μ m) On the drawing frame, it is broken into fibers through drawing, cutting and drawing, and then blended with cotton to form yarn. The fabrics using this kind of yarn in both warp and weft directions have excellent radiation resistance and shielding effects, and can be used for national defense and civil use. If you burn the cotton fiber with fire, it will be a very thin stainless steel mesh.

（3） Slub yarn

Slub yarn is a device added to the ordinary spinning frame to make the front roller speed change or stop, so as to change the normal drafting multiple. A thick knot suddenly appears on the normal yarn, like a slub, so it is called slub yarn. Similarly, it can also make the middle and rear rollers suddenly overfeed, and also change the draft multiple to generate knots. At present, the linear density of commonly used slub yarn is 12~83tex (12~83metric count). The raw materials include pure cotton, chemical fiber blend, mainly short fiber, but also medium length and wool fiber. Generally, the length of the slub shall not be less than the length of the fiber. The slub length of cotton fiber is shorter, while that of wool fiber is longer. The slub thickness depends on the variety, and the development and application of fancy yarn with the smallest slub ratio

The base yarn is about one time thick. When this slub yarn is combined with a normal yarn of the same number of characteristics to make clothing fabric, the surface of the fabric can show irregular patterns. When using slub yarn, which is 4~5 times thicker than the base yarn, it is often wrapped with a thin yarn or filament. Because the difference between the thickness of the slub yarn and the base yarn is too large, and the twist at the slub yarn is very small, this yarn is not only easy to hairiness, but also has low strength. Wrapping a yarn can overcome this shortcoming. The fabric woven with this yarn has a rough surface and unique style; This kind of yarn can also be used to make wavy yarn on fancy twister. Because the wavy yarn at the thick knot is very large and looks like corn, it is also called popcorn yarn.

Slub yarn can be divided into monochrome yarn and bicolor yarn. The bicolor slub yarn is also spun on a modified spinning frame. The middle roller and the rear roller are separately driven by a servo motor. Two rovings of different colors are sent from the rear roller into the groove of the middle roller top roller to form a drafting area with the front roller. The other roving is fed from the back of the middle roller to form a drafting area with the front roller. The two color slub yarn can be produced by overfeeding on the basis of spinning the two color yarn.

（4） Intermittent AB yarn

The spinning method of this kind of yarn is to feed a roving of different colors (or different dyeing properties) into the middle roller and the rear roller respectively. The middle roller and the rear roller are driven separately. For example, the middle roller and the front roller spin A yarn, and the rear roller intermittently feed B yarn. This section forms AB yarn. When feeding B yarn, A yarn should be decelerated to ensure evenness. This kind of yarn has been produced in large quantities in South Korea and has just started in China. Intermittent AB yarn is shown in color figure 1-7.

（5） Bicolor alternating yarn

The spinning principle is the same as that of double color slub yarn, which is also spun on the modified spinning frame. The middle roller and the rear roller each send out a roving of different colors, and the two pairs of rollers send yarn alternately. If the middle roller sends out A-color roving, a section of A-yarn is spun by the front roller drafting; When the A yarn stops, the rear roller starts to send the B color roving and then spins it into a section of B yarn. A segment of AB yarn will be generated at the intersection of two colored yarns, and the length of each segment of colored yarn can be set by program.

（6） Big belly yarn

The main difference between this yarn and slub yarn is that the slub yarn is thicker and longer, while the detail yarn is shorter. Generally, there are few slubs in slub yarn. There are only two or so slubs in 1m, and they are very short. Therefore, slub yarn is mainly based on base yarn, and the slubs are used as a starting point. The big belly yarn is dominated by thick knots, highlighting the big belly, and the length of thick details varies greatly. At present, the commonly used big belly yarn is 100~1000 tex (1~10 metric fibers), and the main raw materials are wool and acrylic fibers.

（7） Colour dot  yarn

The yarn with color dots attached to the surface of the yarn is called color dot yarn. There are light colored dots attached to the dark colored yarn, and there are dark colored dots attached to the light colored yarn. This kind of color dot is generally made into particles by rubbing famous short fibers, which are added during spinning after dyeing. Both cotton spinning equipment and woolen spinning equipment can be used to rub colored wool particles.

Due to the addition of short fiber particles, the yarn is generally spun to be thicker, with a linear density of 100~250tex (4~10metric pieces). This type of yarn is used more in woolen fabrics, such as fire spandex (steel tweed) in tweeds, which are all woven with color dot yarn. Polyester staple fiber can also be kneaded into particles, mixed in cotton yarn, woven into cloth and dyed at room temperature. Because polyester can only be colored by disperse dyes under high temperature and pressure, it can generate stars like white dots on the surface of the fabric, which has a unique style. There are also dark colored particles added to light colored fabrics to make the fabric surface appear colorful ideas, with a unique style. Several different styles of colored dot yarn are shown in Color Picture 1-10~Color Picture 1-12.

（8） Knot yarn

This kind of yarn is similar to colored dot yarn, but it only uses one color of dots, such as particles made of cotton or viscose fiber when spinning polyester yarn. If the polyester is dyed with disperse dyes after this yarn is woven into cloth, the cotton will not be colored, and it will show white stars (color pictures 1-13). This kind of yarn and ordinary yarn are arranged at a certain distance in the warp direction. After dyeing, they will form a strip shape. If the weft spacing arrangement is added, they will form a lattice shape.